Garden

Reliability is a great quality in any plant.  Annuals keep the blooms coming all season, but perennial plants provide beauty with staying power.

Perennials can be used anywhere in your landscape.  Plant a few here and there, or plant them in masses for the greatest impact.

Plant according to size and bloom time for the best effect.  Traditionally tallest perennials are planted toward the back of the bed, or the middle if you’re planting an island bed.  Most varieties are long blooming (4-6 weeks at a time), but not all perennials bloom at the same time.  Stagger your spring, summer, and fall bloomers for color throughout the season.  Don’t over-think it though, some of the best perennial beds are happy accidents of a not so well laid plan.

When planning your perennial garden, consider using a backdrop (the side of your house, a fence, a privacy hedge), create an island bed, or plant along a tree line.  If space allows, anchor your bed with small ornamental trees or shrubs to fill the space quickly and to combine multiple colors and textures to give your space a finished look.

If you ask any garden professional, listing his/her Top 20 Perennials is like naming your favorite children.  There are many plants beyond this list that would make excellent companions for your perennial garden.  Stop in and ask Nursery Manager Kerry or a member of his team for additional recommendations.

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BLACK-EYED SUSAN

FULL/PART SUN

HEIGHT

18″ – 36″

DESCRIPTION

A classic perennial, native to North America.  Golden blooms begin to show mid-summer and last for weeks at a time.  Tough and forgiving of just about any environment.  Multiplies quickly.  A great plant for the beginning perennial gardener.

2012 Perennial Plant of the Year, Perennial Plant Association


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BUTTERFLY WEED

FULL/PART SUN

HEIGHT

18″ – 36″

DESCRIPTION

A type of native milkweed and a butterfly favorite!  Especially popular as a host and nectar source for monarchs and swallowtails.  Long lasting blooms.  Low maintenance.

2017 Perennial Plant of the Year, Perennial Plant Association


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CATMINT

FULL/PART SUN

HEIGHT

18″ – 36″

DESCRIPTION

Long blooming, and easy to grow.  Lovely lavender-blue flower spike appear early summer and continue for many weeks.  Has fragrant foliage too!

2007 Perennial Plant of the Year, Perennial Plant Association


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CONEFLOWER

FULL/PART SUN

HEIGHT

18″ – 36″

DESCRIPTION

Something for everyone!  Coneflowers come in all colors and sizes.  Native, tough, and striking when planted in masses.  Well known for attracting goldfinches and other songbirds.

1998 Perennial Plant of the Year, Perennial Plant Association


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CORAL BELLS

SUN/SHADE

HEIGHT

8″ – 12″

DESCRIPTION

Coral Bells come in just about every color you can imagine.  Brighten a shady spot or plant near Hostas for amazing contrast.  Though Coral Bells flower, the main attraction is the foliage.  A native perennial.

1991 Perennial Plant of the Year, Perennial Plant Association


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COREOPSIS

FULL/PART SUN

HEIGHT

15″ – 36″

DESCRIPTION

Delicate blooms hover above feathery or compact, tidy foliage…depending on the variety.  Profuse blooms through summer.  Striking addition to a mixed perennial garden.  A native perennial.

1992 Perennial Plant of the Year, Perennial Plant Association


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DAYLILY

FULL/PART SUN

HEIGHT

15″ – 36″

DESCRIPTION

Oh so easy!  Daylilies can take the harshest environments and preform beautifully year after year.  Trumpet shaped blooms appear from a fountain of shiny green foliage.  Some varieties will re-bloom if previous blooms and stems are removed.


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DIANTHUS

FULL/PART SUN

HEIGHT

8″ – 12″

DESCRIPTION

Perky pink to scarlet blooms atop compact silvery blue-green foliage.  Perfect for the perennial bed border.

2006 Perennial Plant of the Year, Perennial Plant Association


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FERNS

PART SUN/SHADE

HEIGHT

18″ – 36″

DESCRIPTION

Ferns provide an air of sophistication when planted en mass or among other part shade/shade perennials.  Who needs blooms to impress?  Not this plant.

2004 Perennial Plant of the Year, Perennial Plant Association


WaltersGardens-HI7098-Pennisetum-alopecuroidesLittle-Bunny

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(ORNAMENTAL) GRASSES

FULL/PART SUN

HEIGHT

12″ & up

DESCRIPTION

Ornamental grasses work double duty as a fantastic filler and year-long entertainer.   Most varieties sprout furry to feathery plumes from  summer to fall.

2001 & 2014 Perennial Plant of the Year, Perennial Plant Association


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(HARDY) GERANIUM

FULL/PART SUN

HEIGHT

18″ – 24″

DESCRIPTION

Violet-blue, lavender, pink, or white saucer-shaped blooms atop a delicate mound of lobed foliage.  One of the longest blooming perennials for our area.  So many blooms it can be used in container gardens then planted in the landscape at the end of the season.  That’s impressive blooming power!

2008 & 2015 Perennial Plant of the Year, Perennial Plant Association


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HELIOPSIS

FULL/PART SUN

HEIGHT

24″ – 36″

DESCRIPTION

Also known as false sunflower, likely due to its sunny personality, Heliopsis is a native, sturdy perennial that’s very adaptable to most environments.  A cheerful addition to the middle of the perennial bed.


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HOSTA

PART SUN/SHADE

HEIGHT

18″ – 48″

DESCRIPTION

One of the most recognizable perennials, with good reason.  A beautiful plant for shadier environments, and it not only survives but thrives!  There is a nearly endless list of Hosta varieties.  A very dependable perennial (just keep the deer away).


liriope

LIRIOPE

SUN/SHADE

HEIGHT

12″ – 18″

DESCRIPTION

Liriope is another perennial that is exceptionally impressive planted in clusters.  A favorite for use in landscape plans as a border plant.  Versatile and tough, Liriope does well in sun or shade.  Lavender-purple flower shoots appear late summer.


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MONARDA

FULL/PART SUN

HEIGHT

10″ – 48″

DESCRIPTION

Fuzzy flowers with tubular fingers atop sweetly scented foliage, Monarda (Bee Balm) is a hummingbird and butterfly favorite. A native perennial.


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PLUMBAGO

FULL/PART SUN

HEIGHT

8″ – 12″

DESCRIPTION

Cobalt blue blooms appear late season.  Foliage turns red tipped as temperatures drop in fall.  A must for the perennial garden border.  Easy care, attractive tear shaped foliage, and spreads easily in the landscape without being invasive.


WaltersGardens-HI6989-Salvia-nemorosaCaradonna
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SALVIA

FULL/PART SUN

HEIGHT

8″ – 30″

DESCRIPTION

Salvia is another perennial that makes the longest bloom list.  If deadheaded, it will re-bloom throughout the summer.  This is an all around good perennial that is well known by new and seasoned gardeners because it’s a reliable performer in the garden.

1997 Perennial Plant of the Year, Perennial Plant Association


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SHASTA DAISY

FULL/PART SUN

HEIGHT

12″ – 42″

DESCRIPTION

Daisy delights!  Sturdy and easy to care for, Shasta Daisies bloom and bloom.  When you think they’re done they bloom some more.  A native perennial.

2003 Perennial Plant of the Year, Perennial Plant Association


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SEDUM

FULL/PART SUN

HEIGHT

4″ – 24″

DESCRIPTION

Sedum have many faces, but they all have the same great features.  Fleshy foliage that stores water to sustain the plant even in the harshest conditions.  A minimum maintenance plant with maximum interest in any environment.


WaltersGardens-HI16773-Phlox-paniculata-FLAME-tradeSeries-Pink-BartwelvePP11804-CPBR1094

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TALL PHLOX

FULL/PART SUN

HEIGHT

15″ – 42″

DESCRIPTION

Another classic favorite with pretty bloom clusters that last for weeks at a time.   New varieties have been introduced over time.  A native perennial.

2002 Perennial Plant of the Year, Perennial Plant Association

 

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Get Ahead Of Weeds

What you do now matters if you plan to get a head of weeds in the lawn this spring.

For many years the Fertilome 3-Step Lawn Program has been our top recommendation for customers who want an lush, healthy lawn.  Follow the three easy steps and you are on your way to your best lawn ever!

DO NOW:

Apply Step 1 March – April to control difficult weeds including Chickweed, Crabgrass, and others listed on the label.  Ferti•lome® For All Seasons has just the right amount of fertilizer that roots need to grow strong after a depleting winter.  

FULL PROGRAM:

» STEP 1: Ferti•lome® For All Seasons Lawn Food Plus Crabgrass and Weed Preventer w/ Prodiamine pre-emergent herbicide.  Apply in early spring 2 to 3 weeks prior to seed germination to control grassy and broadleaf weeds for up to 8 months.  For All Seasons contains a light amount of fertilizer to help build healthy roots, which is essential for healthy top growth.

» STEP 2: Ferti•lome® Lawn Food Plus Iron – September

» STEP 3: Ferti•lome® Lawn Food Plus Iron again in November

Then, take your lawn to the next level:

» Apply Ferti•lome® Weed-Free Zone to established lawns for post-emergent weed control of over 80 of the toughest-to-control broadleaf weeds including Clover, Ground Ivy, Spurge, Chickweed, Dandelion, Henbit, Oxalis, Poison Ivy, Purslane, Shepherds Purse, Thistle, Virginia Buttonweed, Wild Onion and many others.  It’s fast acting and can be applied when temperatures are between 45 to 90 degree range – Spring, Summer, or Fall.  Can be applied same day as lawn food.  Will not harm existing lawns.

 

 

DORMANT LAWN SEEDING

Soil conditions are ideal for dormant lawn seeding from February to March.  If soil temperatures remain 50 degrees Fahrenheit or less, seed will stay dormant until temperatures rise in spring.

BENEFITS

» Dormant seeding provides a longer window of time for seed to germinate and establish, which is especially beneficial if you plan to apply a spring lawn fertilizer and weed killer.

» Winter seeding gives you a head start on lawn repair. Schedules tend to fill up once the weather breaks in spring, so you’re less likely to miss the optimal window for spring lawn renovation.

» Soils tend to stay moist in winter due to snow and rainfall.  Additional watering is usually not necessary.

HOW

Remove debris and apply seed over thin or bare spots in your lawn. As your lawn freezes and thaws seeds will bury into the soil and germinate when it’s time to sprout. Wait until seeds germinate and grow a full 2 inches before applying weed killers.

JUST ARRIVED

When seeding, we recommend a premium mix such as our signature blend, Delhi Fescue, a top quality grass seed mixed with our local environment in mind.

SPRING LAWN PROGRAM

For new lawns apply Fertilome New Lawn Starter Fertilizer.

Create a lush existing lawn that lasts with the Fertilome 3 step Lawn Program.

Step 1: Apply Fertilome For All Seasons Lawn Food Plus Crabgrass And Weed Preventer with Prodiamine in March/April. Prodiamine gives your lawn just the right amount of nutrition it needs for healthy growth this after a harsh, depleting winter.

Step 2: Apply Fertilome Lawn Food Plus Iron in September and again in November for fast greening, strong roots, and long-term stability.

 

Breathe Cleaner

Clean air, clean house.

Like most people, you probably spend much of your time indoors, so air quality matters.  Furnishings, upholstery, synthetic building materials, and cleaning products can emit a variety of toxic compounds.  Outdoor contaminants such as pollen, bacteria, and molds find their way indoors, adding to the air pollution in your home.  Small, poorly ventilated spaces only make things worse.

Knowledge Is Power.

There is an easy, affordable way to combat indoor pollutants naturally.  Studies show plants are great for purifying the air in your home.  Adding potted plants to a room reduces the amount air particulates that contain toxins.  Plants absorb some of these particulates from the air and take in carbon dioxide, which is then processed into oxygen through photosynthesis.  Microorganisms that are present in the soil purify the air as well.

Let’s Do This!

Some find houseplant care intimidating, but you’d be surprised how many are relatively easy to care for.  Inspired by NASA research, the following are some examples of great air purifying plants that need minimal care:

SPIDER PLANT

Removes formaldehyde, trichlorethylene, and xylene.

Provide medium to bright, indirect light.  Allow soil to dry between watering.

DRACAENA

Removes benzene, formaldehyde, and trichloroethylene.

Provide bright indirect light.  Allow soil to dry before watering.

FIG

Removes benzene, formaldehyde, trichloroethylene.

Provide bright, indirect light.  Allow soil to dry before watering.

PEACE LILY

Removes ammonia, benzene, formaldehyde, and trichloroethylene.

Provide bright, indirect light.  Keep soil evenly moist.

BOSTON FERN

Removes formaldehyde and xylene.

Provide bright, indirect light.  Keep soil barely moist.

SNAKE PLANT

Removes benzene, formaldehyde, trichloroethylene, and xylene.

Bright, indirect light to low light.  Allow to dry between watering (does not like to stay wet).

BAMBOO PALM

Removes benzene, formaldehyde, and trichloroethylene.

Provide bright, indirect to medium light.  Can also handle low light conditions.  Keep soil barely moist.

ALOE

Removes formaldehyde.

Provide bright, indirect light.  Allow soil to dry completely between watering.

GOLDEN POTHOS

Removes formaldehyde, carbon monoxide, and benzene.

Provide bright, indirect to medium light.  Can also handle low light conditions.  Allow soil to dry between watering.

ENGLISH IVY

Removes formaldehyde.

Provide bright, indirect light.  Keep soil somewhat moist.

RUBBER PLANT

Removes carbon monoxide, formaldehyde, and trichloroethylene.

Provide bright, indirect to medium light.  Allow soil to dry between watering.

CHINESE EVERGREEN

Removes benzene, carbon monoxide, formaldehyde, and trichloroethylene.

Provide bright, indirect to low light.  Allow soil to dry between watering.

GARDEN MUM

Removes ammonia, benzene, formaldehyde, and xylene.

Provide bright light and allow soil to dry before watering.

TERMINOLOGY

Ammonia is found in window cleaners, floor wax, and smelling salts.

Xylene is found in paints, lacquers, adhesives, rust preventers, thinners, gasoline, and permanent markers.

Formaldehyde is a byproduct of the combustion of natural gas, kerosene, wood, and tobacco.

Benzene is found in paints, polishes and waxes, auto care products, home fuels, adhesives and sealants, and lighter fluid.

Trichloroethylene is found in printing ink, wax paper, facial tissues, paper towels, particle board, plywood, and synthetic fabrics.

 

Resources:  Dr. Bill Wolverton, Environmental Scientist

https://ntrs.nasa.gove/archive/nasa/casi.ntrs.nasa.gov

https://www.epa.gov/sites/production/files/signpost/index.html

Fall Is Best For Lawns

FALL IS THE BEST TIME TO SHOW YOUR LAWN SOME LOVE

What you do now has a big impact on the state of your lawn next spring.

Believe it or not, FALL is actually the best time to restore or renovate your lawn.  Cooler temperatures, warm soil, sunshine and precipitation are the ideal components for your best lawn ever next spring.

Depending on the state of your lawn, and what you did last spring, your plan for August and September will vary.

WEEDS IN AUGUSTfl-weed-free-zone-10524

If you plan to restore your lawn this fall, and weeds are an issue, begin with a weed control product.  Keep in mind, if you plan to seed in September (which is the best time to do it) you need about 2 weeks between spraying or applying any weed control product and seeding your lawn.

Ferti•lome® Weed-Free Zone, a post-emergent weed killer, is effective at temperatures between 45 degrees and 90 degrees.  It contains ingredients that combat over 80 of the toughest to control broadleaf weeds in lawns including Clover, Ground Ivy, Spurge, Chickweed, Dandelion, Genbit, Oxalis, Poison Ivy, Purslane, Shepherds Purse, Thistle, Virginia Buttonweed, Wild Onion, and many others listed on the label.

Weed-Free Zone is fast acting and rain-fast in as little as 3 hours. For more info visit MAKE YOUR YARD A WEED-FREE ZONE

Roundup® is another effective product for targeted weed control in the lawn (and landscape).  It kills existing weeds down to the root.  Apply in sunny, dry conditions for the best results.  You should see a difference in about 3 hours.  Roundup is rainproof in only 10 miniutes.  CLICK FOR MORE INFORMATION

SEPTEMBER » ESTABLISHED LAWNS

fl-lawn-food-plus-iron-10755_5pouch

Apply Ferti•lome® Lawn Food Plus Iron, a good all-around lawn food with iron and nitrogen for greening and long term stable growth. Your existing lawn will thicken and green-

up in a jiffy.  This is Step 2 of your yearly Ferti•lome® 3-Step Lawn Fertilization Program.  Apply again in November to strengthen roots and ensure a quick green-up in the spring.

» STEP 1: (Spring) Ferti•lome® For All Seasons Lawn Food Plus Crabgrass and Weed Preventer

Apply in early spring to control of grassy and broadleaf weeds.

» STEP 2: Ferti•lome® Lawn Food Plus IronSeptember

» STEP 3: Ferti•lome® Lawn Food Plus Iron again in November

SEPTEMBER » TO SEED OR NOT TO SEED?

If the answer is to seed – September is the time to do it.

t2ec16fyme9s5qe1rbr4cspcog60_35If your lawn is merely thin, over-seeding will give you the plush lawn you’re looking for. If you only have a few thin or barren areas, you may need to simply spot seed.

To over-seed your lawn, or patch bare spots, mow first on a low setting.  Use a bow rake or thatching rake to remove the buildup of dead vegetation and debris that accumulates above the soil surface, at the base of the blades.  Raking also helps aerate the soil, which allows oxygen, water and fertilizer to reach seeds and newly sprouted blades.

A thin layer of thatch is beneficial, however, as it returns nitrogen to the soil as it decomposes.  It also provides a buffer from changing temperatures.  A layer more than 1/2” thick can inhibit water and fertilizer from reaching the roots.  This causes grass roots to grow into the thatch layer where they are more vulnerable to dry conditions.

Using a spreader helps create an even covering of seed throughout the entire lawn.  Seed or over-seed with a premium mix such as our signature blend, Delhi Fescue, a-turf top quality grass seed mixed with our local environment in mind.  When seeding, apply Ferti•lome® New Lawn Starter Fertilizer.  Its special formulation ensures your grass seed has the essential nutrients for developmental growth in these early stages. Water well but avoid creating puddles that wash away seed.  Keep the area consistently moist for 2 to 3 weeks to ensure germination.  Dry seed will not germinate so water daily if needed.

To patch a small, bare area, remove dead grass and add soil as needed.  Add seed and fertilizer, then cover lightly with additional soil.  A thin covering of straw will add protection.  Keep these areas moist until the seed has germinated, removing any heavy clumps of straw when the new blades appear.

Raise mower to standard mowing height (about 3”) and mow new grass when it reaches approximately 4” in height, then maintain it as you do the rest of your lawn.

For newly emerged grass blades, mow twice before applying Ferti•lome® Weed-Free Zone to the area.

Don’t wait until next year to show your lawn some love.  Seeding, feeding, and weed control this fall will give you a head start on the lawn you’ve always wanted next spring!

SEPTEMBER SEEDING TIPS

» STEP 1: Spread Delhi Fescue Blend quality grass seed to thicken lawn or patch bare spots.

» STEP 2: Ferti•lome® New Lawn Starter Fertilizer –  Designed to help grass seed develop roots and mature stems.  A must for new lawns

» STEP 3: After mowing new lawn at least twice apply Ferti•lome® Weed-Free Zone at temperatures 90 degrees and below to 45 degrees.

Moving Houseplants Indoors

As we fade into fall, reintroduce your houseplants to their indoor home.

Tropical houseplants placed around your home during winter months can turn even the darkest days of the year lush and green.

Container houseplants are the easiest to move out in the spring and back indoors in the fall.  The key element to transitioning plants is timing. There aren’t specific rules per-se, but there are helpful guidelines to give you reassurance the transition will be a success.

Most common houseplants can survive outside until early October, but there are exceptions, so research your plant varieties to determine their specific needs. To be safe, the beginning of the school year serves as a good reminder to start planning your transition.  There are a couple of advantages to winterizing plants earlier. You can do so at a more leisurely pace if you begin taking plants inside earlier in the season. This allows for a more gradual transition, giving plants time to adjust to the indoor lighting and dryer conditions.  Whatever timeline works best for you, keep in mind that temperatures of 50°F or less can harm tropical plants.

Timing

When preparing to transition your houseplants inside, you can help them adjust by placing them in the shade for a couple of weeks before taking them indoors. That way, they can get used to receiving fewer hours of sunlight during the winter. Plants can also be cut back slightly so their size is more manageable and new growth is acclimated to the indoors. To rid plants of pests before transitioning indoors, treat them outdoors with Bonide Systemic Houseplant Insect Control Granules and Bonide Eight Insect Control or Bonide Systemic Houseplant Insect Control Granules and Bonide Organic All Seasons Horticultural Spray Oil.  Be sure to spray the underside of leaves to dislodge pests that hide there.

In spring, when frost is a thing of the past and nightly temperatures have risen above 50°F, it’s safe to reintroduce your houseplants outdoors.

Indoor Care

Inside environments present their own challenges and quirks. As daylight decreases, plant growth slows and some plants will go dormant. Stop fertilizing until days become longer at the end of winter.

While plants are protected from the elements and lower maintenance indoors, they still need attention. Houseplants require water, based on their individual needs.  Keep in mind, the most common cause of death is over-watering, so be cautious not to kill your plant with kindness.  To evaluate dryness, touch the top inch or so of the soil. If possible, feel the weight of the pot when dry so you’ll have a reference in the future.  Most houseplants only need to be watered once per week or less, depending on the variety. If you still aren’t sure, stop in to speak to one of our knowledgeable associates.

Adjust your watering schedule if you observe changes such as browning of the outer leaves edges, which may mean your houseplants aren’t getting enough water.  If your plants’ innermost leaves turn yellow it might be overwatered.  It can be hard to tell the difference, so don’t hesitate to ask an expert for help.

In addition to watering, houseplants also require humidity during winter. Artificially heated indoor environments become quite dry for houseplants. If you don’t have a humidifier, hydrate plants by misting them with a spray bottle.  You can also create a humidity to add moisture to the air.  Put pebbles on a tray then fill with water, leaving the tops of the pebbles exposed. Place a houseplant on the tray and it will absorb liquid in the air as the water evaporates.

Indoor houseplants aren’t always exposed to enough sunlight. Research plants to determine how much sun they require. Those that need to soak up the most rays should be placed next to west or south-facing windows. Plants that flourish in the shade do best near east or north windows. If plants can’t receive four to five hours of light per day in your home, artificial light sources, such as grow lamps, can provide supplemental light.

With proper care you can enjoy your plants all year long, and they will love their seasonal settings and the occasional change of scenery!